Sizzling summer days and hot sticky nights call for a glass of something well chilled, but before you reach for the Whispering Angel, perhaps we should wise up to the wine ways of the Mediterranean. Yep, our sunnier continental cousins – not to mention the Aussies – know that when the mercury rises it’s time to step away from last year’s basic bitch frosé and pop a bottle of something redder-hued in the fridge. And for those of us old enough to remember dodgy bottles of limp Lambrusco, think again; the modern-day chilled reds have more of a dark rosé personality, and are well-made grown-up wines in their own right – with the ABV to boot. Below, you’ll find everything you need to know to pull this drink off.
Noboku Okamura, award-winning sommelier at Mimo Cookery School in London’s Borough Market explains. “A chilled glass of champagne, white or rosé is delicious in the baking heat, of course.” Agreed. “But don’t forget the chilled reds; there’s a complexity there that’s quite nuanced in depth compared to when drunk at room temperature – and it’s actually ideal for warmer weather.”
That’s not to say we should stick any old red in an ice bucket though, right? “No”, Okamnura says, “Juicy, fruit driven reds are best – Pinot Noir, Cotes du Rhone or Grenache, especially for a barbecue – and wines with marked tannins or oak won’t do well straight from the fridge. Aim for 12 to 16 degrees and don’t forget they’ll warm up in the glass. At Mimo we’re currently really enjoying a 2016 Principe de Viana 100% Graciano from Navarra in Spain (£10), it’s medium bodied with bright blueberry fruit and proving to be a real crowd pleaser.” Plus, we love that price!
Chilling a red will come as big news to some of us; research by The British School of Etiquette found that a third of wine drinkers believe refrigerating reds is ‘completely wrong’, even though experts say certain varieties are better cold. Philip Sykes, principal of the School, believes the research commissioned by wine brand Cono Sur Bicicleta shows we’re ripe for learning about cool reds, “Many people think that chilling red wine is a faux pas but this is not the case. In Mediterranean countries, it has long been customary to drink the lighter reds slightly chilled, and we in the UK are moving in the same direction.’
Indeed, over half of us prefer red wine above any other but only eight per cent will pour ourselves a glass or two of red during the summer months – many of us save our favourite reds for cosy autumn and winter nights in. There’s no need, says Master of Wine Alistair Cooper: “Enjoying certain red wines chilled shouldn’t seem strange. The fruit you often encounter with lighter, fruitier styles of red wines like Pinot Noir – strawberries, raspberries and cherries – are all fruits that you’d enjoy on a summer’s day straight out of the fridge and the same goes for the wine.”
With room temperatures warmer than in the past, it makes a lot of sense to pay attention to wine temperatures more than ever. Philip Tuck MW (Master of Wine) is wine director at Hatch Mansfield and agrees. “There is nothing worse than drinking serious red wine too warm as all it does is accentuate the alcohol. Lighter forms of Beaujolais and most New World Pinot Noirs which are light in tannin should be consumed at 12-14C, particularly when it’s warm outside.”
So, Pinot Noir seems like a safe bet for chilling, then: handily the label of the very reasonably priced Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir (£7.50, Sainsbury’s) changes colour when the bottle has been chilled to the ideal temperature for some chilly Chilean refreshment. We are also very into a frosty Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2018 (£12, Morrisons) which is a cherry-ripe New Zealand bottle with tons of fruit that pairs well with light summery food like salmon and chicken salads. And Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages ‘Combe aux Jacques’ 2017 (£11, Tesco) is a reliable old friend all year round, but particularly comes into its own after 20 minutes in the fridge where the soft, juicy raspberry notes amp up making it a picnic essential and calling out for paté, charcuterie and baguettes galore.
Alternatively, take a tip from down under and plump for a sparkling red. Australians have been on the chilled red bandwagon for a long time and enjoy cold sparkling Shiraz to accompany brunches and barbecues. Completely different in style to the light and bright wines we’ve looked at so far, an Australian Shiraz tends towards the spicier end of the red spectrum which allows it to stand up to charred meats and desserts alike, making it a great party piece. Try McGuigan Black Label Sparkling Shiraz (£7.50, Sainsbury’s) which is a versatile dark fruited stepping-stone into the world of fizzy reds and you’ll never have to suffer a millennial pink zinfandel again.
Cin cin!
