Forget the blush pink interiors, photogenic floral arrangements or ombre sunsets, it’s a bright white smile that universally dominates any Instagram feed. Once the domain of A-list stars and red carpet pap shots, in the age of perfectionism, a Hollywood smile is simply a scroll away.
Cultural stereotypes might suggest that British people have bad teeth (just think of ‘The Big Book of British Smiles’ in the The Simpsons) but times are changing. According to Dentristy.co.uk, 40% of the UK population are unhappy with their teeth, and many of those are trying to fix it. On Instagram, over a million posts are tagged with the #teethwhitening hashtag and the global teeth whitening products market is expected to reach USD 7.40 billion by 2024.
A trip to any pharmacy chain or supermarket, and whitening products dominate the oral care aisle. It’s not just whitening kits and strips promising targeted solutions but everyday products, like toothpaste and mouthwash, touting whitening claims. Boots currently sell 116 whitening products on their UK e-commerce site.
Despite the bold claims and shiny marketing, EU laws about whitening ingredients are actually very strict. Unlike in the US where whitening ingredients are viewed as cosmetic, in the EU, they are assessed in the same category as medicine. Subsequently, Hydrogen Peroxide, the most common form of bleach in whitening products, can only be sold at 0.1%. Considering the percentage used in the dentist whitening processes is around 6%, this is significantly weaker.
“This lower dose of peroxide will merely remove some extrinsic staining but won’t lighten the intrinsic colour of the tooth,” dentist Guy Barwell explained. Essentially this means over-the-counter products could help combat your flat white (or red wine) habit but will never give you that bright white smile. While this low legal percentage of bleaching isn’t damaging per se, often it can be a waste of money. Plus, Barwell highlights that it can lead consumers down a dangerous path. “Customers are often disappointed with the results from at-home products, especially when compared to the images they’ve seen online. This can drive them to buy higher percentage products online,” Barwell said.
Higher percentage bleach can be bought easily online from less regulated markets outside the EU from sites like ebay or Amazon, or obtained illegally via the black market. “These bleaching strips or kits can contain up 30-40% Hydrogen peroxide – significantly higher than the 6% we are allowed to use as a dentist,” Barwell pointed out.
The danger here is twofold. Firstly, a strong chemical like bleach needs to be applied with precision and expertise. “In the dentist we always apply bleach using a bespoke mouth guard to ensure maximum efficiency and avoid damage to the gums. Self-administration can lead to misuse,” Rhona Eskander, a Cosmetic Dentist, clarified. Similarly, overdoing can lead to problems. “Over whitening can strip the enamel, expose the dentine underneath and actually yellow your teeth further,” she added. Eskander also adds that by embarking on teeth whitening without consulting a dentist, you may not realise underlying issues at play. “People are self-diagnosing. They won’t necessarily notice decay that needs to be addressed.”
A recent study published in the British Dental Journal also raised the issue that many products are now using less researched ingredients as an alternative to Hydrogen Peroxide. For instance, citric acid, which is used as an ‘accelerator’ ingredient. While this will successfully whiten teeth, research suggests it can damage the enamel.
Beyond bleach based solutions, Instagram is awash with alternative and natural whitening products. You will have no doubt seen coconut oil or charcoal based products pushed by aggressive influencer campaigns. When I ask Eskander about these, she is highly sceptical. “Coconut oil, a mild antibacterial lubricant, can help dislodge some stains but it will never whiten your teeth.” Charcoal is more concerning. “There is no evidence to suggest charcoal will whiten teeth and often the abrasive particles can scrub away at your enamel.”
With influencer marketing still in its infancy, Instagram can feel like a Wild West. Take Kim Kardashian West’s recent advert for HiSmile, an at-home solution claiming “white teeth in 10 minutes”. In the Instagram video, Kardashian West is shown using the LED based light kit to whiten her teeth. However, as one commenter rightly noted, Kardashian West’s pearly white smile is down to her veneers (a porcelain covering for the tooth). Instagram is awash with notable personalities with veneers advertising whitening products they have claimed to used.
This only adds to the confusion and intensifies the unrealistic standards we compare ourselves too. “We assume an influencer will have researched a product properly before promoting it but this simply isn’t true,” Eskander is quick to point out. “Take what the say with a pinch of salt and follow the professionals for your advice.”
And, if in doubt, ease off those staining food and drinks, stick to a strict oral hygiene routine and see a dentist about further whitening needs. If you see something online that looks too good to be true, it probably is.
